Fibres:
Textile materials are made three in stages:
* Spinning fibres into yarns
* Weaving or knitting yarns to make fabrics
* Finishing fabrics to make them more useful
There are three types of fibres. They are:
1. Natural fibres
2. Synthetic or man-made fibres
3. Modern fibres
1. Natural FibresNatural fibres come from plants and animals: cotton from the cotton plant, linen from the flax plant, wool from sheep, silk from silkworms.
** Natural fibres from plants:
Cotton: It is cool to wear, has a soft handle, a good drape, and is durable. It can be washed and ironed, but it creases easily, is very absorbent and dries slowly. It is used for making jeans, t-shirts and towels.
Linen: It is fresh and cool to wear, has a stiffer handle, and a good drape. It is used for summer clothing, tea towels and tablecloths.
**Natural fibres from animals:Wool: It is warm to wear, absorbent, dries slowly, is breathable. But it doesn't have good drape, and is not durable .It is used for jumpers, suits and blankets.
Silk: It is warm to wear, absorbent, has a soft handle and a good lustre and drape. It is used for evening wear and ties.
2. Synthetic FibresSynthetic fibres are manufactured using plant materials and minerals: viscose comes from pine trees or petrochemicals, while acrylic, nylon and polyester come from oil and coal.
Viscose: It has a soft handle, a good drape and can be washed and ironed. It is not durable and creases easily. It is used for shirts, dresses and linings.
Acrylic: It is warm to wear, non-absorbent, and fast-drying, with a soft handle like wool, and a good drape.It is used for jumpers, fleece jackets and blankets.
Polyester: It has a soft handle, a good drape, is very durable, crease-resistant, easy-care, non-absorbent, and fast drying. It is used for raincoats, fleece jackets, children's nightwear, medical textiles and working clothes.
Nylon: It has a soft handle, a good drape, is non-absorbent, fast drying, very durable, crease-resistant and easy-care. It is used for active sportswear, fleece jackets, socks and seat belts.
3. Modern fibres** Microfibres can be blended with other synthetic or natural fibres.
** Microfibres are used for outdoor-pursuits clothing and active sportswear.
** Thermoplastic polyester or nylon microfibres can be heat-treated to give them coils, crimps and loops, which makes these textured yarns stretchy and warm. They are used for underwear, sportswear, knitwear and carpets.
Elastane (Lycra): This is always used in a blend with other fibres. It has good handle and drape, is durable, crease-resistant, stretchy (more comfortable) and is easy-care. It is used to make sportswear, body-hugging clothes and bandages.
Tencel: This is natural microfibre made from cellulose derived from wood-pulp. It has soft handle, good drape, is breathable, durable, crease-resistant, easy-care and biodegradable. It is absorbent and has low warmth.It is used for shirts and jeans.
Fabrics:
Most fabrics are made by weaving or knitting yarns together. Non-woven fabrics are made by bonding or felting fibres together.
1.Woven fabrics
2.Knitted fabrics
3.Non-woven fabrics
4.Modern, smart and combination fabrics
1. Woven fabricsWoven fabrics are made up of a weft - the yarn going across the width of the fabric - and a warp - the yarn going down the length of the loom.The side of the fabric where the wefts are double back to form a non-fraying edge is called the selvedge.
There are two types of woven fabrics:
** Plain weave fabric
** Twill-weave fabric
2. Knitted fabricsThere are two types of knitted fabrics:
** Weft-knitted fabrics are made by hand or machine. Weft knitted fabric is made by looping together long length of yarn. The yarn runs in rows across the fabric. Weft knits are used for socks, T-shirts and jumpers.
** Warp-knitted fabric is made by machine and is used for swimwear. Warp knitted fabris is made by machine. The loops interlock vertically along the length of the fabric.
3. Non-woven fabricsNon-woven fabric is made by bonding or felting:
** Bonded-fibre fabrics are made from webs of synthetic fibres bonded together with heat or adhesives. They are easy to sew, crease-resistant, do not fray and are stable to washing and dry-cleaning.
** Wool felt is a non-woven fabric made from animal hair or wool fibres matted together using moisture, heat and pressure. It is used for hats and slippers and in handcrafts.
4. Modern, smart and combination fabrics
Modern and smart fabrics are designed to maximise characteristics such as lightness, breathability, waterproofing etc - or to react to heat or light. They are usually manufactured using microfibres. The table shows some key modern fabrics and their properties.
Combination fabrics: Fabrics can be layered and combined to improve their handle, appearance or performance. For example:
- An interfacing fabric such as Vilene can be stitched or laminated to other fabrics. This reinforces, stiffens and gives strength to collars and cuffs and prevents the fabric from stretching or sagging.
- A quilted fabric has two or more layers sewn together to give an attractive appearance and added warmth.
- Gore-Tex can be laminated to another fabric using adhesive or heat. Gore-Tex is used for all-weather clothing and shoes because it is breathable and waterproof.
Choosing materials
It is important to choose materials that are fit for their purpose.
** Fibre content - should you use natural or synthetic fibres?
** Fabric construction - should you use woven, knitted or non-woven?
** Manufacturing processes - should you use dyeing, printing, mechanical finishing or chemical finishing?
** End-use of the fabric. What are you making - jeans, jumper, sportswear or a seatbelt?
** Maintenance. What are the aftercare requirements of the product?